IN THIS PHOTO: Kate Bush in 1978/PHOTO CREDIT: Gered Mankowitz
Take "Wuthering Heights," the chart-topping debut single Bush wrote at 18 after she realized she shares a birthday with the novel's author, Emily Brontë—it soundtracked Thom Browne's Spring 2013 women's show and Isabel Marant's collection for Spring 2014. "I think there isn't a thing that girl didn't have," says Marant's musical director, Ariel Wizman, of Bush. "Beauty, talent, personality, spirituality, amazing singing and acting technique…no taste approximation, and a lot of what fashion is missing nowadays: a personal universe." What fashion and music are missing, Wizman seems to think: "You can win The Voice 10 times with vibratos, dramas, and makeup artists, but you will never be Kate Bush."
Frédéric Sanchez has played Bush's songs twice, once 20 years ago for the second Marc Jacobs show (Spring 1995)—"it was a cover of 'Wuthering Heights' by the L.A. punk band White Flag," he says—and the second time for Miu Miu (Fall 2011), when he did a soundtrack of Bush songs, including "The Infant Kiss," "Breathing," "Hammer Horror," and "In Search of Peter Pan." "Without listening, you can already feel the poetic and inspiring side of her music in those titles," he says. Equal to her poetry are the pictures her words paint. Fashion is a visual business, and insiders old enough to remember her early concerts or curious enough to have sought out her videos on YouTube will be familiar with her theatrical performance style. (The shearling-lined, over-the-knee boots she wore in the 1978 picture we found weren't bad, either.) "Like David Bowie," Sanchez adds, "she belongs to a world of artists where you immediately get the 'sound and vision'".
Though Bush adopted multiple attire, I think, at its heart, her look was defined by something true to her; she never sought to dress like Pop artists of the day. There was an honest to her style but, alongside this, she threw in twists and combinations that made her videos and photoshoots so fascinating and timeless. Her 1979 Tour of Life was Bush performing tracks from her first two albums and, for each number, there was something different in terms of her appearance.