FEATURE:
A Lady of Leather
ALL PHOTOS: Brian Aris
Are the 1978/1979 Photos Taken By Brian Aris Among the Coolest Kate Bush Shots?
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THERE will be some debate…
but what are the ‘coolest’ Kate Bush photographs? In terms of the most beautiful, striking or quirky, everyone will have their own choices. The most iconic and enduring. Some might not think of Kate Bush as being a cool person. Shae most definitely in. Rather than ‘cool’, perhaps ‘edgy’ or something a little different to what we would expect from her. I am going to come to words about some particular photos from 1979 that I argue are the coolest of Kate Bush. Taken when she was twenty/twenty-one, it looks like she is wearing a leather jacket. Though, being a vegetarian, maybe fake leather or some substitute. The shots are a blend of earlier ones Gered Mankowitz took in 1978 and this slightly different persona. The photographer responsible for the photos are the great Brian Aris. Before getting to the photographs, here is some biography about a legendary and revered photographer:
“Brian Aris began his photographic career as a photojournalist, working for a London agency. Over the next nine years a series of frontline assignments took him around the world - to cover the civil unrest and riots at the start of the troubles in Northern Ireland, the plight of Palestinian children in Jordan, the civil war in Lebanon, famine in Africa and the war in Vietnam, where he worked until the final days of the conflict in Saigon. He then decided on a complete change of direction and opened a studio in London where he started photographing fashion and glamour models for newspapers and magazines. Nina Carter and Jilly Johnston were among the first girls he worked with and he soon found himself on “permanent holiday”, regularly flying to exotic locations such as St.Tropez and Jamaica for weeks at a time to work with a succession of top models. At the same time he gradually broadened his studio work to include pop and rock stars such as Blondie, The Jam, The Clash, The Boomtown Rats, Roxy Music and The Police. And after three years he turned away from the model world to concentrate on the music industry that was exploding in Britain.
During the next two decades he covered every aspect of the music scene from punk rock, glam’ rock and straight rock ‘n’ roll with the Rolling Stones right through to the emergence of the boy bands and then the girl power that arrived with The Spice Girls. Commissioned by Bob Geldof to photograph his wedding to Paula Yates, Brian was then brought in to take the exclusive official pictures of the all-superstar Band Aid line-up organized by Bob as they got together to record the sensationally successful fund-raising hit single Do They Know It’s Christmas? to help the victims of the Ethiopian famine. Exclusive backstage coverage of the Live Aid and Live8 concerts followed and Brian eventually went back to Ethiopia with Bob to photograph the work that had been carried out there as a result of the money raised. Other glamorous weddings followed - Sting to Trudy Styler in Dorset, David Bowie to Iman in a cathedral in Florence, Liza Minelli to David Gest in New York, Joan Collins to Percy Gibson in London and David Beckham to Victoria in an Irish castle. Band Aid returned in 2014 to raise funds to fight Ebola in Africa and once again Brian photographed the official line up for Sir Bob Geldof.
The late Princess Margaret’s son David Linley asked Brian to take the official photographs at his wedding to Serena Stanhope and it was on that occasion that he photographed members of the Royal Family for the first time. He went on to photograph Her Majesty the Queen Mother at Clarence House and Her Royal Highness Princess Margaret at Kensington Palace. He was then commissioned to produce the official portraits marking both Her Majesty The Queen’s 70th birthday and, later, the Golden Wedding Anniversary of her marriage to His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh. Brian has also been commissioned to photograph the Duke of York, the Duchess of York and most recently the wedding of Princess Anne’s son Peter Phillips to Autumn Kelly at St. Georges Chapel, Windsor. It was there that he first photographed Kate Middleton.
For many years now Brian has worked closely with Twiggy and his pictures of the supermodel are among photographs he has on show at The National Portrait Gallery in London. His portrait of Mick Jagger has been shown at the prestigious Recontres D’Arles exhibition in France and at the Royal Circle of Art in Barcelona. One of his images of David Bowie is about to go on display at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts for an exhibition celebrating the work of Thierry Mugler. He also has a series of photographs in "My Heart Goes Glam (The New Romantics)" exhibition which opens in Rome at Rossocinabro on 8th February 2019. His archive represents one of the largest individual collections in the U.K.”.
I have used Brian Aris’s photos in some recent features. The most recent one was for an edition of Them Heavy People…, where I talked about some extraordinary characters. That main photo is one that I am talking about. It might be a pleather jacket or something similar. Kate Bush looks so cool! Not that the idea of the shoots was to make her look cool. It is just that a few particular shots, including the one at the top of this feature, are among the most standout ever. I love his work with Kate Bush. It does not get talked about enough. He took some incredible photos during The Tour of Life. My favourite is Cowgirl with Shotgun. That is an undeniably cool shot. Not to glamorise guns. It is the way Kate Bush is posed and the fact that she has this commanding expression. Serious and intense, there is a playfulness about the live performance. Brian Aris capturing a great moment. He is one of those photographer who took a fair few photos of Kate Bush, though he is not discussed as much as others, such as Guido Harari. 1979 was an interesting year. I feel the between-albums years are when we get to see Bush perhaps more open to new ideas and angles for photos. The 1979 portraits very different to what she shot around The Kick Inside and Lionheart in 1978. There is some debate as to whether the photos of Bush were taken in 1978 or 1979. Brian Ari was photographing Bush in 1978, though I think some of the studio ones were from 1979, so I am hedging my bets and saying that it was 1978/1979. Think about some of the photos we got in 1981. A departure from 1980’s Never for Ever and photos then. Bush working with, among others, Clive Arrowsmith and Anton Corbijn. Although Gered Mankowitz was photographing her still in 1979, I feel like it was a year when she did not want to worry about an album – though she was recording and working on bits for Never for Ever -, and eyes were on that tour. Even after, I feel her head was very much on the stage. Photographs from this year are among the most fascinating and insightful. As you can see, 1979 was one of Bush’s busiest years. The first half of the year very much taking up by touring and performance. From June 1979, Bush was writing new songs. Bush involved in some live performances and at the odd award show. By January, 1980, she would step into Abbey Road Studios for a five-month stay whilst recording for Never for Ever.
It was definitely a turning point, as I have said. I do feel that there was a particular aura or look that Kate Bush gave to Brian Aris. A little moody or enigmatic, I do think that it is her at this mysterious and cool best. The shots in the jacket are so amazing. That main image I have used at the very top is one of the very best. I feel that was a moment when Bush was, however briefly, was shedding off images and perceptions people and the press had of her. Not to say some of these Brian Aris shots were more grown up. However, I feel like many still saw her as a naïve girl who was wearing leotards and was ripe for ridicule. Instead, what we have with some of these photos, is a woman maturing. She was only just in her twenties by 1979, so she was not going to completely change things. Even so, I especially love. I wonder if some negative reaction from the press caused Bush to think about her style and appearance. She was someone always changing and trying new things. 1979 was a year when she turned twenty-one (on 30th July) and embarked on her one and only tour. Negative interviews like this from NME must have shocked her. That notion that she was this girl who said ‘amazing’ and ‘wow’ all the time. That is why the Brian Aris photos make me feel there was this awakening or evolution. I did want to bring in this 1979 article, where we learn about Bush’s beauty regime and fashion. A make-up arteries sharing her experiences of working with this amazing and unique woman:
“Kate Bush is 21, and although her lyrics are very much that of a woman, her body is that of a child, while her face combines an appealing innocence with a theatrical sensuality.
That's both on stage and off, and one of the people who should know is make-up artist Kirsty Climo, who has worked with Kate on both her audio visuals and television appearearnces.
"Kate is gamine, with a sexy elfin quality and is striking even without makeup", she says. An opinion also held by EMI head Bob Mercer who says: "She has this tremendous gamine quality of innocence to sexuality without seeming consciousness". This was strikingly evident on her recent sell-out 'Rock Theatre' tour.
Kate Bush first made her impact on the record world with her hit "Wuthering Heights". In a white Victorian nightdress, bought down the Kings Road Road, she cartwheeled Emily Bronte's heroine out of the moors and into television programmes worldwide with her audio film. That and her peculiar voice, likened to an instrument but not specified as to which one, she either made you love or hate her.
Whether in a gold lame Mary Quant catsuit, sitting on a perspex light box so as to appear in limbo for her 'Man With The Child In His Eyes' or in a lilac ruched dress to portray the Hollywood starlet in her song "Wow", Kate acts out every detail of her songs She works on everything. Her lyrics about relationships, spiritual and otherwise, are those of a woman though she looks like a child, and at 5ft. 3ins, is certainly built like one.
While Kirsty was concentrating on her face there were others who were shaping her body. At 16, Dave Gilmour of the Pink Floyd heard a demo of her songs. He was impressed enough lo put up the money to have them produced professionally. She was signed on the spot by EMI, and with uncharacteristic paternalistic concern they suggested she go away, form her own company and spend the next few years writing at their expense.
She used the time taking modern dance classes at the Dance Centre and then rook mime classes with Lindsay Kemp, who helped David Bowie with his Ziggy Stardust character, and went on to form her own show with the help of choreographer and principal dancer of the London Contemporary Dance Theatre, Anthony Van Laast.
When Kate first left school she knew she wanted to dance. She had tried Karate and not found it satisfying but after seeing an advertisment for Lindsey Kemp's 'Flowers' she was drawn to his classes. Lindsey believed that people could be liberated through mime and music but his classes were for living fabulously through all senses -- to release the individual personality. After six months with Lindsey she then took modern dance classes every morning for a couple of hours with Anthony Van Laast.
After her dance classes she rehearsed with the band into the evening. In all, a working day of twelve hours and this went on for months. At first she found the dance classes so exhausting that she would end on her knees. Anthony had to give her the stamina which he did by pushing her like a horsetrainer.
Kate is a vegetarian who eats very little. During the gruelling months of rehearsals her sister-in-law did the catering, providing quiches, waldorf salads, nut roast and an amazing variery of cheesecakes. Kate's mother would come along to the rehearsals with a bag full of Mars bars, biscuits and fruit besides advice on how look after herself -- but, says Kirsty Climo, Kate is sensible and it shows.
Kate drinks very little coffee or alcohol. So Kirsty doesn't have to waste three quarters of an hour comouflaging any after-effects on the skin. Kate is very health conscious and it show in her pale even skin tone. Her skin with its fine pores and her clear almond-shaped eyes are testimonies to the healthy life. Her eyes and mouth which are very wide are appealing. She has pixie ears which when not covered by her hair are tipped by Kirsty with blusher. However, Kate likes her hair wild and bushy and does not want to be pruned. She hennas her hair herself and her make-up during the day is simple -- just black eye line and mascara.
But for record albums, television and audio visuals, Kirsty is called in. She works around Kate's eyebrows and eyes by extending and smudging lines into the hairline. Kirsty is partial to Dior and uses creams and then powders over the top, especially around the eyes so as to get a sooty effect. She uses matt bright darkish colour lipsticks for Kate, as anything light doesn't balances her eyes.
Kate herself can either take or leave make-up but is very quick to pick up new techniques. For her show she used the Madeleine Mono glitter glitter sheen make-up which was used on her by a make-up artist friend. He used a very classy style. He put silver lines on her eyes and a jewel by the mouth. He highlighted her naturally high cheekbones with pink glimmer, dark brown underneath, and silver above. Typically she only needed to be shown once and she knew how to do her face for herself throughout her tour.
Kate accepts the way she looks and is quite at peace with herself. She is very aware of the way she moves. Her vegetarianism, yoga and dance exercise show by the good blood circulation reflected in her skin. She doesn't eat much at all and as she doesn't dance every day and is aware of the relationship between the intake and output of food and energy. She's sensible about her diet and it shows in her slim hips and lean thighs
Kirsty is amazed how models and people only take off the make-up they can see. She believes certain soaps are for certain skins but we undermine everything by not rinsing them off with at least twenty splashes of water. Very hot water is good for washing oily skin as it helps dissolve the oil. Kate herself has fairly normal skin.
Kirsty, who has worked with Elkie Brooks and Linda McCartney realises that luminaries do not want to be changed out of all recognition, only enhanced. She sees Kate's face as warm and intelligent and thinks we are responsible for our faces through what we think. Kate's yoga helps her to relax not only her body but the muscles in her face.
It is not only in the two and a half hour show with its 17 costume changes where Kate wears Leotards. At home she wears bodyclothes, leg warmers and is usually barefooted. If you saw her in the street you would think she was a casual and informal art student. Photographer Gered Mankowitz who takes her publicity photos says, "When she likes a certain jumper and boots she will wear them all the time". But in her music and looks she is changing constantly”
Finishing with a final few words about Brian Aris. I would leave to hear an interview from him, where he talks about working with Kate Bush. I can’t see any interviews where he has. It is the look in her eyes and what she is wearing in some of those photographs that really stays with me. I love this more chic or street-tough look. Fashionable but also quite accessible, you could say Madonna performed similar evolution. A tougher more leather-bound look for Papa Don’t Preach from 1986’s True Blue. Thinking back a few years when she was wearing bangles and bright clothing, this was a more mature look that mirrored her sound. Same with Kate Bush. I think Brian Aris should be commended for capturing something in Kate Bush not really seen previously. Some of the shots for The Tour or Life. Are some of those 1979 Brian Aris photos the coolest of Kate Bush? I think so. At a moment when many might not have seen Bush might have been seen as an immature or flighty teen who wore leotards and was a bit dizzy, she wads showing people otherwise. It was Kate Bush being her natural and authentic self, though there were some shoots where she got to wear outfits that she wouldn’t necessarily wear down the high street! The 1979 photos from the great Brian Aris are…
ABSOLUTE classics.
